I just got back from three nights in Hong Kong, and am suffering from that mixture of feelings one probably always gets after coming home from vacation - the rush of comfort and relief in returning home, the frustration in not having been able to experience more, the depression and stress that comes with the mere thought of having to start work again on Monday, and pointless longing for a longer and much more extended holiday. It always sucks to have to jump back into normal life again, and I already cannot wait for my next trip, regardless of where it may be.
I didn't bring my digital camera with me to HK, because I figured my phone would be good enough and I'd surely ruin the moment by taking forever to whip out my camera, remove the lens cover, and find the right setting and all the hassle. In such a fast-paced world, smart phones work much better in capturing the moment, even though the quality of the photo may not be as refined (that, and it's so much more convenient for lazy people like me). Well, I'm not a photographer anyway, and my photos would still probably suck if I used the most advanced camera in the world, so no regrets.
Even so, I'm very fond of a few of the shots I took this trip, and since hastily thought-up Facebook captions don't really do them justice, I turn again to this dear blog of mine. So, where to start, where to start!
DAY 1, November 4th
The flight to HK was at eight freaking thirty in the morning, which means I had to wake up at 4:45 to catch the airport limo bus to the airport (since I had to leave before the first subway). The four-hour flight, which is actually pretty short compared to Europe or Thailand last year, was still excruciatingly boring since I hadn't prepared a single thing. It was my first time traveling with company, and I thought the mere presence of a friend would be more than enough to keep me entertained. I turned out to be dead wrong, and spent much of the flight trying and failing to fall asleep, looking through old photos on my friend's iPad, listening to a few songs, and moaning about being bored. Once we arrived we were pretty hungry, so we went to a restaurant at the airport which was apparently popular because people were lining up, but the food was so disappointing I figured the people going there were probably desperately hungry like we were.
Then we headed straight to the hotel room via a free shuttle bus from Hong Kong Station (hotel name was ibis at Central and Sheung Wan) and decided to take a nap before doing anything else. The room was on the 13th floor and had a "city view," which meant a few old apartment buildings and a sliver of the sea in between. I wasn't complaining too much, though; the curtains did a great job in keeping out the light, the staff was friendly enough, and the showers were strong even though the drains and towels could use some improvement.
I couldn't fall asleep right away, but the bed was comfy and I was able to rest plenty before taking a shower and preparing for the evening. I'm not sure whether it was because of the flight or change in weather, but the slight cold I caught the day before was slowly getting worse, and was to hit me in full later that night.
My friend and colleague Fangyin, who is originally from Beijing, has a few friends and acquaintances in Hong Kong that had offered to take us out to a meal and show us around. The first one to meet was a guy named Ellis whom she had met in Korea - he could converse in Mandarin which is how they were able to be friends. He brought his friend Eddie, and the four of us went for some mango dessert thingy and fruit. (I don't know the names of any of the foods I tried, though I should...)
Then we went to the harbor to see some laser light show which lasted about 10 minutes and was really a big disappointment if not for the spectacular view of the night skyline we were able to witness.
Afterwards we went to Temple Street for dinner at a really local and not so clean place, where we were treated to an assortment of dishes that were randomly selected from a laminated menu. The guys surprised us by dipping their chopsticks in hot tea, then rinsing all the plates and bowls with the tea, then apologetically explaining that this was the norm because who knows how well these people clean their dishes?
As for the food... The fried oyster I remember trying in Singapore, and I'd eaten fried tofu before, and the sweet and sour pork is common in Korea, but the rest was new and, in case of the pigeon dish, a bit daring. I also tried Schweppes cream soda, which isn't Hong Kongese but not available in Korea, and I absolutely loved it. I would have drunken a can every day but I couldn't find the opportunity.
DAY 2, November 5th
We set the alarm to 9 or 10ish, I think, to head over to Macau to spend the day there. We skipped breakfast and walked over to the pier, at Shun Tak Center which should've been 15 minutes away but took us nearly an hour since we went after the wrong pier. Then, after about two hours of wandering around (we got sidetracked by Victoria's Secret) we purchased the ferry tickets only to discover that Fangyin wasn't allowed to enter Macau with her Chinese passport. Which still baffles me, because I thought both Macau and HK are SARs of China; why aren't they allowed to enter or live without a visa/permit? But then again, I could also imagine mainlanders swarming in if there weren't any regulations, what with their sheer population and increasing wealth, buying up everything, taking up all the spaces, shooting up prices, and creating a bad image for the decent Chinese folk such as Fangyin, who aren't so rude and dirty and loud. ANYWAY, our plans were completely thrown out the window, and after getting our refunds for the ferry tickets we went into a random restaurant in the mall to devise a plan B while filling up our stomachs. I wasn't too disappointed, though; Macau wasn't my top priority anyway, and the mere aspect of relaxing and vacationing in a place far away from Seoul was all I needed to keep myself happy for the time being. I tend to enjoy myself better when I don't have a strict agenda.
Lunch was at Cafe de Coral, which I found later on Google is a huge fast food chain in Hong Kong, very much like the gimbab franchises in Korea. The level of crowdedness, however, was on a totally different scale. People were waiting in a long queue that moved fairly quickly, as the meals were prepared at lightning speed, and it is common in many places, I discovered, to share your table with random strangers, ensuring that no seat is left empty. I ordered some chicken and rice, but the lady at the counter misunderstood the picture I was pointing to, and instead I got some other rice dish with pork and fake abalone strips and a cup of milk tea. I didn't bother with changing my order since I didn't really care what I got, and the meal turned out to be pretty tasty anyway.
Our next destination was Lamma Island, a tiny little place that could be considered a getaway from the hectic city life of Hong Kong. The pier was actually the one we mistakenly went to in the morning, and the ferry ride only cost 18 HKD, which is a fraction of the ferry ticket to Macau. The ride itself took about 20 minutes, just enough time to enjoy the view of the water and not get seasick. We arrived at a rustic harbor at the northern end of the island, with lots of trees and small houses. There's only one main road lined with shops and restaurants, so it's impossible to get lost. Nevertheless, we followed the wrong road and ended up going up a hill with nothing but old houses and tiny shrines, and had to make a detour to find the main path again. The view from the hill was not something I expected to see during my trip; I thought it would be a cosmopolitan city experience all the way. Still, it was a nice break that made me feel like I really was on holiday.
After stopping by for a snack we made our way to a beach, where I saw people sunbathing and swimming. I hadn't been able to go to the beach once this summer, and I seriously wanted to punch myself for not bringing swimwear to Hong Kong. But then again, I hadn't planned to see a pool or the beach during my 4 days here. We settled for sitting on a rock to watch the water for a while, then decided to walk to the southern end before heading back to the city.
This "walk," however, turned out to be a full hike on what is called "Family Trail." I was wearing high-heeled Crocs and was not prepared for this, but it was no use turning back since we'd already come so far. Despite my aching feet and sweat-soaked shirt, I had a good time on this trail because 1. I hadn't gone hiking in a while, 2. I figured all this walking would burn off all the calories from the food, and 3. we were able to see some breathtaking views of the sea, especially since the day was turning dreary and the sun was barely shining through the clouds, its rays reaching the water like some holy messenger from heaven was about to descend.
The trail ended at the less glamorous part of the island, much less picturesque than the northern part, but lined with plenty of seafood restaurants. We had dinner there and received free ferry passes for the ride back. I'm not sure whether it was because I was hungry, but the food was simply delicious and I was so glad to be able to sit down after all that walking.
Before I could finally reach the hotel and get some rest, though, I had to get lost. I can't help it, it's just typical of me when I travel, to go the completely wrong way even while consulting a map; I'm helpless like that. So of course, I set off on the opposite direction after walking out the wrong exit, my feet thoroughly blistered by this point, and when I finally understood the map I realized that it would kill me to walk again back to the hotel because that would require another 30 minutes of walking and I wasn't going to tolerate it. The street I was walking down was all for buses and trams, so I couldn't find any taxis either. So I quickly scanned the bus stops and found one that went past the hotel (at least the name of the street was the same) and took forever counting my coins for the bus fare. I didn't have the exact change, and the bus driver must have thought I was a pathetic tourist because he gave a resigned sort of chuckle and told me to just take a seat. I think I ended up paying more coins than was necessary, but I was too tired to give a damn and just plopped down, eyes glued to Google Maps so I could get off at the right stop.
It was the end of a long, long day; I can't describe the bliss I felt when I showered, washing away all the sweat and salty stickiness from the ferry ride, snuggled under the covers, and started on my novel while waiting for Fangyin to return. She came in a little before midnight, and apparently didn't have the best time because her friends had brought Hong Kongese friends who all spoke Cantonese, making her feel as I had felt the day before :P. I strangely had trouble falling asleep that night, and received some help from this sleep meditation thing that soothingly guides you through finding the right state of mind for a relaxing slumber. It was my first time trying it out, and the next morning I was delighted to find that I'd actually fallen sound asleep long before it ended.
DAY 3, November 6th
Day three was long-awaited dim sum day and I was excited. There wasn't anything particularly special planned, except for dim sum and afternoon tea. Fangyin was still undecided whether or not she should meet with Ellis for dinner again (she was feeling sorry that I felt uncomfortable joining, and I had told her I was perfectly fine with doing my own thing for the evening; not sure of what to do yet, I was swiping through Tinder to find some last-minute company, hoping to maybe find a local who knew some good places to go for food).
We were supposed to meet Fangyin's other friend Yuki (a Beijinger who lives and works in HK) in front of Lin Heung Tea House at Central, but were about 15 minutes early and decided to walk around while waiting. I discovered that Jenny Bakery was a mere 3 minutes away, and since it was just about to open I decided to buy some cookies before heading over to dim sum. Jenny Bakery cookies are apparently super famous, and sure enough, there was a long line of people even before the store had opened. I'd tried some a few months back ago when someone brought a box to Korea, and thought they were pretty good but not worth waiting hours in line for. Plus, I mean, this place only allows two boxes per customer and are quite rude according to reviews online. However, since the queue this time was relatively short and a colleague of mine had requested some, I joined in and as a result ended up a bit late for dim sum.
Dim sum was pretty much exactly as I had imagined; loud, crowded, and impossible to try out everything. It was my first time at dim sum, watching old ladies pushing around carts and taking orders from people by stamping a small paper menu card. The food was a lot more unfamiliar than dinner on the first night, and while I found many of the dishes tasty, I found myself thinking I wouldn't be able to eat much if it weren't for the hot pu'er tea, since most of it was meaty and greasy and soy saucey. Take chicken feet and pig rind, for example; they're also common in Korea, but in my country the chicken feet is usually spicier and the pig rind comes with other side dishes besides tea, that sort of neutralize the taste and sensation. I was longing for a salad, or some kimchi maybe, when the meal was over. What can I say? Must be the Korean in me.
After dim sum we followed Yuki and her friend Valerie for some coffee (appalling and sour but supposedly known as the best coffee in HK) then went browsing around some high-end shops, watching as Yuki purchased a large piece of jewelry and fur cape from Gucci. I noticed the styles in Hong Kong are totally different from the stores in Korea. They're so much more Chinese, embellished with flowers and outrageous colors, and everything in general just didn't look very appealing or expensive, even. Though of course, I'm sure one handbag probably costs more than most things in my wardrobe put together. Here, I once more was reminded of how Korean my sense of style is. ^_^
At around half past noon I decided I wanted to take a nap before heading for afternoon tea. I had booked for two at the Four Seasons Hotel, and had a couple hours to spare. We snoozed for a bit, then I changed and got ready before we headed out. The afternoon tea, frankly, did not match our expectations. The view from the window was grimy and ugly, and the snacks and desserts were mediocre. The tea was the only thing I felt was truly superb - it was exquisite both with and without tea/sugar. We spent a couple of hours there, and I sat mainly reading my novel. Then we decided we were way too full and tired, and headed back to the hotel for another nap since Fangyin was feeling a bit sick.
Fangyin ended up cancelling dinner with Ellis and instead we chose to meet Yuki again for dinner. We agreed to meet at 8, so had a few more hours to kill at our room. My cold was a lot better but this tine Fangyin was feeling sick; probably more so from the food from afternoon tea. I couldn't sleep much, so I kept reading my novel and rested my eyes while waiting for my friend to finish her second nap.
At half past seven we ventured over to Lan Kwai Fong, a section of town very much like Hongdae in Seoul, full of bars and restaurants and clubs and expats. Indeed, I saw more foreigners than HKers and felt like I was in a whole different country in Europe or something. The rest of Hong Kong actually resembles Chinatown in New York, but LKF looks less Chinese than any other place in this city. We found a random bar to wait for Yuki, Fangyin still feeling nauseated and exhausted. I handed over some digestive medicine I brought with me for emergencies, and I think that helped a lot, because by the time we were done with our skimpy dinner (a tiny pot of seafood) she was feeling much better.
Yuki brought us to a quieter part of Lan Kwai Fong, less crowded but still exuberant with the energy you normally get in any place famous for night life. The bar we originally wanted to go to was full, so we opted for a small but cozy cocktail bar called The Woods. The drinks there were a bit funky and had healthy looking ingredients, but turned out to taste... awful, to be honest. And since I didn't have much for dinner, I ordered guacamole and chips, but the chips were flavored Doritos (really salty too), and the guac had some spicy ass pepper that had my mouth flaming within a few bites. What a complete waste of money. So we sat there for a while and I decided I wanted to go to a club, since Yuki said the clubs in HK had more popular music than electronic, which is what I very much prefer. But it was too early, only about a quarter to 11, so we got our stamps first and decided to hit bar number three called Townhouse, which is in the same building as the club.
Anyway, after a quick sheet mask we got into bed. Fangyin was still tired and sick and seemed ready to crash immediately, but strangely again, I couldn't fall asleep. I read my novel well past two, until Fangyin got annoyed because she couldn't sleep properly with all the noises I was making by tossing and turning, and turned on the sleep meditation thing which miraculously worked.
DAY 4, November 7th
There wasn't any time to do anything on the last day, since we had to leave at 10 to catch our 13:10 flight. Fangyin, still sick, wanted to sleep in as late as possible, so in the morning I made one last walk to the subway station alone and had a quick breakfast at a local tea house: scrambled eggs and toast, and some macaroni soup with milk tea.
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| Last walk to the subway... seriously looks like NY Chinatown!!! |
Well, that was the story of my trip and I'm back home now, dreading the weekend slowly coming to a close. My trip was, in general, an enjoyable one and I'm glad I spent it with a close friend instead of solo like last year. I'm not one to romanticize traveling - I don't wish to do it all the time and I can't relate to people who say they've caught the travel bug. I don't make lists of places to visit and things to do when I visit a certain place, and I was grateful since Fangyin made most of the decisions on where to go so I could just follow along. My thought every time I visit a new place is that all cities are pretty much the same, with just a few cultural differences. Everyone wakes up in the morning and goes to work. Everyone occasionally meets friends and goes out to eat and drink, party, watch movies, take walks along some nice scenery, whatever. For me, I think the purpose of traveling is just to get away for a while, to a place far away from all your responsibilities and stress, to meet new people and just take a break. Along the way, experiencing new foods and cultures are just a plus. And ultimately, traveling always gives me a new appreciation for my home, my country, and my culture. So yeah, I hate being back home so soon but I love it at the same time. :D
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